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Neighborhood Eats: The fire behind Kindling Texas Kitchen

A fire tried to shutdown Kindling Texas Kitchen. The restaurant reopened in May because their passion could not be doused.

CIBOLO, Texas — Justin and Gwyn Hammerson didn’t move to Cibolo to open a restaurant. But it happened anyway. Suddenly their unexpected path has Kindling Texas Kitchen trying to offer a new culinary spark in their community.

“The industry just happens to you,” Gwyn said.

The virtually inseparable couple moved from Austin to Cibolo. Justin’s family is five generations deep in Cibolo. They cut their teeth in the Austin culinary scene. They got approached about opening a restaurant at 209 N. Main Street. And they yielded to the temptation.

“We wanted a nice date location and excellent food. Nothing too crazy,” Justin said.

The name of the restaurant, Kindling Texas Kitchen, is a play at starting a fire or a spark to the culinary climate in Cibolo.

It looks like a house. In fact, the restaurant is an old house converted into a dinner-only facility. The Hammerson’s found out their connection to their restaurant went beyond food.

“It wasn’t until we started doing a demo in that we realized this house was built by his (Justin’s) family in 1911,” She said.

Happenstance or destiny? Justin’s great-great-great-uncle built the home his nephew now runs a restaurant out of. 

The space is ‘fly by the wall’ decorating as Gwyn describes it. Yet, it’s warm and inviting. A place with comfortable energy.

They opened six months ago. But a fire almost shut them down. The restaurant reopened in May.

They describe their menu as Texan cuisine. Not just BBQ or Mexican food but every culture the cooking couple can capture.

“You could call us American food because we’re in America,” Gwyn said. “Texas is its own nation.”

Most of their offerings are cooked on a wood fire grill, over an open fire or in a cast-iron skillet. That’s everything from their rib-eye steaks to their pork chops over pannus.

Neighborhood Eats was provided with a taste test. The appetizer was shishitos peppers cooked in lime and sea salt. 1 in 10 peppers is spicy hot. Delicious!

Next, braised beef and risotto: Braised beef neck, Autumn squash risotto, seared trumpet mushrooms, roasted squash, curry green leaf chimichurri and shallot oil. Fantastic!

Credit: KENS 5
The braised beef neck at Kindling Texas Kitchen comes with risotto and trumpet spear mushrooms.

Finally, they served their highly touted Blackened Gulf redfish with gumbo. The fish is blackened with the ash from leeks and lemongrass. This is not your typical gumbo! It is made with carrots, peppers and mushrooms.

The blackened fish sits atop of bay rice with gumbo as the soupy foundation. Spice levels on the gumbo can be modified upon request. Neighborhood Eats had the mild version. This is a great dish.

The real chew: Kindling Texas Kitchen is a charming spot with good food. The energy of this place is cool. There is a bar so those two pair well. The Hammersons are putting their experience to work in their food. It’s obvious. But something about the food says the best is still to come. Let’s be clear: That is NOT a bad thing. I just believe this couple is working to render their best offering----and even that may get a redo.  Justin’s grandmother is the pastry chef. And there are plans to add a brunch. I can’t wait to see this place when it crosses the finish line.

Give Marvin your review of Kindling Texas Kitchen. If you have a restaurant or food truck you'd like for him to try send an email (Mhurst@kens5.com), tweet (@Mhurstkens5), IG: @Mhguy, or post it on his Facebook page. #KENS5EATS

 

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